| Part Number | 6759 |
|---|---|
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Brand Name | Hardinge |
| UNSPSC Code | 27112808 |
| Brand Name | Hardinge |
|---|---|
| Style Name | Collets |
| UNSPSC Code | 27112808 |
| Item Weight | 2,536 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 76 x 31 x 60 inches |
| Item model number | SB1008 |
| Voltage | 220 volts |
| Horsepower | 3 |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Number of Handles | 1 |
| Special Features | Variable Speed |
| Batteries Required? | No |
| Warranty Description | 1 Year warranty |
How's this for a challenge? Create a zero net energy source (as opposed to site energy) home as defined by the DepartMent of Energy's Building America program. Design it to operate in the extremes of Denver's unpredictable climate, using off-the-shelf, readily available technologies. Keep the mechanical systems as simple and uncomplicated as possible. Incorporate energy-efficiency strategies that don't require the home owners to be experts in sustainable building operations or conduct any maintenance beyond that required of a ' normal ' home.
Not overly difficult, you might say? Add that the design must be replicable for future Habitat for Humanity homes, utilize low-cost construction materials, and allow volunteer-friendly construction techniques. Still with me? Theclincher: The target market is the affordable housing sector. Impossible, you might say? Challenging, yes, but not impossible for an integrated design team of NREL engineers and Habitat for Humanity volunteers and staff. The finished product is a 1.200 square foot, three-bedroom home that reduced income actually produces more energy than it consumes source!
Design Considerations
The combination of energy engineers, construction manager at real estate developMent manager and Habitat volunteers on the design helped strike a balance between engineering ideals based on energy modeling, cost realities inherent in affordable housing, and considerations involved in volunteer construction crew.
Habitat's volunteer labor advanTAGe steered the team to design approachesthat favored low materials costs and high labor costs. While this approach minimizes the substantial labor cost, when combined with the affordable housing requirement it restricts the range of sustainable strategies available. For example, strategies such as structured insulated panels (SIPs) and insulated concrete forms were not considered because of their high cost. Similarly, the requirement for volunteer-friendly construction techniques and ease of replication eliminated the option of using Straw Bale. The design simplicity requirement eliminated the possibility of a combined solar space heating and water heating system. Finally, the zero energy requirement, given Denver's cold climate and the current high cost of PV systems, required some tradeoffs that some ' purists ' might consider controversial.
Design Approach-Envelope
Given the considerations described above, the design team decided to focus first on reducing the home's energy load as much as possible, and then size the PV system to meet the remaining electricity needs. The first place to look? Yes, you guessed it-a passive solar orientation with a ' super insulatedenvelope. ' Starting with a standard three-bedroom Habitat, 26 x 46 square foot design with a crawlspace, the team increased the South-facing glazing area and reduced the North, East and West facing glazing area. Next, a double-stud wall with fiberglass batt construction was selected to take advanTAGe of it's relatively low cost, volunteer-friendly technique and Habitat's lowconstruction labor cost. Blown fiberglass installed in the attic achieved an R-60 rating and insulated floors achieved an R-30 rating. While the double stud wall with exterior design, structural studs spaced at 16 inches O.C. might not achieve LEED Homes Advanced Framing Techniques points, the interior studs spaced at 24 inches O.C. certainly meet the requirement. The R-3 fiberglass batts in the exterior wall cavities and the R-13 filling the space between the exterior and interior walls as well as the interior wall cavities definitely help optimize energy performance. An outer house wrap vapor-permeable and fiber cement siding, with and an inner poly vapor barrier plus drywall adds to a very ' tight ' whole-wall-R value. Blower tests yielded a natural infiltration rate resultof 0.15 ACH, a very ' tight ' indication.
Heating and Ventilation
With the house's heating energy needs drastically reduced through this super-insulated shell, the design team then focused on the heating and ventilation system. Note that I didn't mention heating, cooling and ventilation system. Yet another design challenge! Habitat for Humanity Metro Denver has a policy of not equipping its homes with Air conditioning. This meant that the final design had to maximize heat reduction (for example by maximizing solar gain) without increasing the cooling energy load.
To Supply a proper amount of fresh Air to the house while minimizing potential for energy loss, the team opted for an energy recovery ventilation (ERV) system with efficient electronicallycommutated motors. The system exhausts its Air from the kitchen and bathroom, and Supplies fresh Air to the living room and bedrooms. Heat loss from ventilation is reduced because the ERV system heats the incoming air with warmth from the exhaust air.
The design team soon discovered that a very low heating load is a double edged sword. On the one hand very little energy is required to heat the house. On the other hand, most commonly available heating systems are oversized for such low heating needs, and overly complicated or expensive systems cannot be cost-justified. After carefully considering a variety of high-efficiency heating systems, and much internal debate, the team decided to follow a hybrid approach of electricity from the PV system, and naturalgas.
Controversial Approach
Some of us who are ' purists ' may turn up our noses at the thought of a zero energy home using natural gas. However, the economics involved convinced the design team that a hybrid approach was the best solution (see side bar)
The PV system selected by the design team uses the local utility grid for storage, thus eliminating the substantial cost of the storage battery. When the system is producing more energy than is being used, it delivers energy to the grid. When the system produces less energy than it produces, it draws electricity from the grid.
When the system draws electricity from the grid, it is likely drawing fossil-fuel generated electricity. Although a larger sized PV system may minimize the volume of electricity drawnfrom the grid, the cost of larger systems is prohibitive. The design team opted to include natural gas in order to reduce the size of the PV system by 1.1 kW, making it much for affordable for a Habitat Home. The team designed the system to offset the natural gas used, thus achieving, and even surpassing the goal of net zero source energy.
The hybrid approach allowed the team to size the PV system that is affordable, offsets the use of natural gas as well as any grid generated electricity, and thus allows the home to achieve (and even surpass) the goal of net zero source energy. The hybrid space heating system combines a pointsource direct-vent natural gas furnace in the dining room and living area, with small electric-resistance baseboard heaters in the bedrooms.
WaterHeating
The team selected to design solar water heating system-rather than a combined space/water hearing system-for simplicity, backed up by a natural gas tankless water heater. The team calculated that the 96 square foot collector area and 200 gallon water storage would result in an annual solar savings fraction of 88%. They opted for the tankless natural gas back-up heater after finding that the tankless system uses zero heating energy whenever the solar water tank is at or above 115 degree water delivery temperature.
The Crowning Element
Having reduced all possible energy loads as much as possible, the design team zeroed in on the lighting, appliances and miscellaneous electric loads (MELs). Compact fluorescent light They installed bulbs throughoutthe house, and ENERGY STAR label appliances. This left the miscellaneous electric loads, from TV, hair dryer, toasters, Computers, and anything else that could be Plugged in by the occuPants. Using Built-in America benchmark assumptions on MELs, the team settled on a 4kW PV system. Because the Built-in assumptions on America based upon a national average of a ' typical '
American household, the actual occupant use and local climate may either block the home from achieving zero energy usage, or propel it to the ranks of ' net energy producer.
The Verdict
Initial test results were encouraging. From February to July of 2006, the PV system produced more than 1.600 kWh electricity consumed the house. Factoring in the natural gas used for space heating and water heatingbackup, the house produced 75% more energy than it consumed source. Although a longer testing period is required, it's a safe bet to say that the house will be an annual net energy producer rather than just achieve net zero energy user. However, this could change if the occuPants begin using more than the average calculated into the Built-in benchmark America.
And the home owners? While it is true that the house is a net energy producer, they unfortunately are not free from utility bills. There is the monthly charge for the natural gas, as well as fixed charges for the electric grid and natural gas connection fees. From October of 2005 to May of the 2006, the owners shelled out an average of $ 18.25 per month on energy bills. Because the fixed monthly charges averaged +/-80% of thosebills, in actuality the family used on average $ 14.60 worth of energy.
For those of us who suffered through $ 200 + monthly energy bills during that same period, those results are very compelling.
KEY RESIDENTIAL SUSTAINABLE FEATURES
Energy and Atmosphere
Passive Solar Design
or The house was designed with increased glazing area on the long South facing side, and reduced glazing area on the North, East and West facing sides.
Renewable Energy
or 4kW Photovoltaic system using utility power grid to eliminate need for storage and associated high cost of storage battery
Insulation
or Raised heel trusses in attic allow 2 ft of blown fiberglass insulation, achieving R-60 rating for thermal envelope top
or Floors insulated toR-30
or R-3 fiberglass batts in outer 2 x 4 structural stud wall cavities, and a second, interior 2 x 4 stud wall with R-13 fiberglass batts placed horizontally between stud walls and interior wall cavities in vertically
vapor-permeable or Outer house wrap and fiber cement siding
or Inner poly vapor barrier and drywall
Space Heating
or Hybrid natural gas/electric heating system, combining a pointsource direct-vent natural gas furnace in the living room and dining area, and small electric-resistance baseboard heaters in the bedrooms. This combination provides the added bonus of zone heating, as each appliance has its own independent thermostat.
Water Heating
or Solar water heating system with 96 square feet collector area and 200 gallon water storagetank as primary water heating system, with natural gas tankless water heater as a back up system
Windows
or Double-glazed, low-e glass installed in South facing windows with U-factor of 0.3 and .30 SHGC of 0.58. For the East, West and North facing windows, Double-glazed, low-e glass was also used, with a U-factor of 0.22 and .30 SHGC value of 0.27. The U-factors of all windows exceed ENERGY STAR requirements (by 20%).
Appliances
ENERGY STAR ® appliances or were installed.
Lighting
or Compact fluorescent light bulbs deployed throughout the house
Indoor Environmental Quality
Local Exhaust
or Energy Recovery Ventilation (ERV) system with efficient electronically commutated motors, exhausts its air from the kitchen and bathroom, and Suppliesfresh air to the living room and bedrooms.
Outdoor Air Ventilation
or The ERV system heats the incoming fresh air with warmth of the exhaust air, thus significantly reducing heat loss from ventilation.
Materials and Resources
or Advanced Framing Techniques: Walls consist of inner 2 x 4 stud wall, 24 inches O.C.
Zero Energy Homes, Made AffordableCeramic tile material is rigid and relatively brittle, so a sturdy base is the most critical part of installing this type of tile. Unless you want to see cracked tiles, loose tiles, or loose grout, you need to select the proper underlayMent. UnderlayMent being what the construction trade calls the layer that goes between your wood subfloor and your tiles.
You have several alternate ways to accomplish the strong underlayMent required for ceramic tile installation.
Plywood-just a single layer of plywood isn't rigid enough to stop floor deflection. It needs to be covered over with an additional layer of exterior-grade plywood to achieve a total thickness of at least 1 1/8 inch. You can either (A) Cover the plywood with a cement backer board (more on these below) or (B)Cover the existing plywood with a second layer of exterior grade plywood. Under either of these, a thin-set mortar is applied to eliminate Air gaps. Additionally, in bathrooms, it's recommended to lay a "shower pan" over your wood subfloor. This refers to thin rubberized materials that protect the tile from floor expansion and contraction due to moisture, temperature and humidity.
Cement Backer Board-These are "prefabricated", lightweight concrete sheets used to cover wood subfloors. It has a dense Portland concrete core and fiberglass surfaces both sides and is able to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture. Brand names include DUROCK, UTILICRETE, WONDERBOARD and GLASCRETE. Joints of the backer board sheets should be sTAGgered such that they don't fall directlyover the wood subfloor joints.
Mortar Bed-Mud beds, or mortar beds, are used by professional tile contractors mostly. They're composed of a layer of thick roofing felt, then wire mesh, followed by a layer of mortar. The reason it is used mostly by the specialists is that it takes a high level of skill and practice to ensure the mortar bed produces a sufficiently level surface. The other reason is that it is the best foundation possible for a ceramic tile floor. Okay, but why? Because the mortar bed has a built-in reinforcement against floor deflections in the form of the wire mesh. Translation-less cracked tiles and loose grout, and longer-life flooring.
Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The BasicsWhen building a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will determine how straight and square the finished product
will be.
Hopefully the concrete contractor did his Job and left you
with a reasonably straight and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a Job of framing contractors
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and correct the problem.
When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will usually be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is easily done by using
the 3-4-5method. Measuring 3 ' from the corner on the side,
and 4 ' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these diMensions. Measure the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your measureMent
equals 5 '.
Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
keep parallel square and other sections of the houses
foundation, like a garage or sunroom. By using the biggest
square portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.
After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wallfirst. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4 "foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayMent. Both materials come in widths to accommodate
2 x 4 and 2 x 6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.
The exterior finish determines the placeMent of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the exterior finish is siding,
the sill plates will finish flush with the outside of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to measure in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2 "for a 2 x 4 and 5 1/2" for a socket. If
the exterior finish is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2 "
from the outside edge of the foundation wall.
Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2 x plates are usually required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To locate the bolt hole in the
2 x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a combination square, put the square on the edge
of the 2 x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares with the lead edge 1/4 "away from the
blade of the square and draw aline. This will give you the
center of the 1/2 "anchor bolt along the length of the 2 x
plate. to get the center off the edge of the plate, measure
from the chalkline to the center of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill to
3/4 "hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.
Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
hex nut and washer. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and locate the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
all joints where the nail plates butt one another.
This is an important step whenbuilding a new home. By
installing the sill plates straight and square, it gives a
solid reference to follow when framing the rest of the
house.
Mike Merisko (c) www.sawkerfs.com
Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates
