Thursday, April 19, 2012

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable


How's this for a challenge? Create a zero net energy source (as opposed to site energy) home as defined by the DepartMent of Energy's Building America program. Design it to operate in the extremes of Denver's unpredictable climate, using off-the-shelf, readily available technologies. Keep the mechanical systems as simple and uncomplicated as possible. Incorporate energy-efficiency strategies that don't require the home owners to be experts in sustainable building operations or conduct any maintenance beyond that required of a ' normal ' home.

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable


Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable



Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable

Not overly difficult, you might say? Add that the design must be replicable for future Habitat for Humanity homes, utilize low-cost construction materials, and allow volunteer-friendly construction techniques. Still with me? Theclincher: The target market is the affordable housing sector. Impossible, you might say? Challenging, yes, but not impossible for an integrated design team of NREL engineers and Habitat for Humanity volunteers and staff. The finished product is a 1.200 square foot, three-bedroom home that reduced income actually produces more energy than it consumes source!

Design Considerations

The combination of energy engineers, construction manager at real estate developMent manager and Habitat volunteers on the design helped strike a balance between engineering ideals based on energy modeling, cost realities inherent in affordable housing, and considerations involved in volunteer construction crew.

Habitat's volunteer labor advanTAGe steered the team to design approachesthat favored low materials costs and high labor costs. While this approach minimizes the substantial labor cost, when combined with the affordable housing requirement it restricts the range of sustainable strategies available. For example, strategies such as structured insulated panels (SIPs) and insulated concrete forms were not considered because of their high cost. Similarly, the requirement for volunteer-friendly construction techniques and ease of replication eliminated the option of using Straw Bale. The design simplicity requirement eliminated the possibility of a combined solar space heating and water heating system. Finally, the zero energy requirement, given Denver's cold climate and the current high cost of PV systems, required some tradeoffs that some ' purists ' might consider controversial.

Design Approach-Envelope

Given the considerations described above, the design team decided to focus first on reducing the home's energy load as much as possible, and then size the PV system to meet the remaining electricity needs. The first place to look? Yes, you guessed it-a passive solar orientation with a ' super insulatedenvelope. ' Starting with a standard three-bedroom Habitat, 26 x 46 square foot design with a crawlspace, the team increased the South-facing glazing area and reduced the North, East and West facing glazing area. Next, a double-stud wall with fiberglass batt construction was selected to take advanTAGe of it's relatively low cost, volunteer-friendly technique and Habitat's lowconstruction labor cost. Blown fiberglass installed in the attic achieved an R-60 rating and insulated floors achieved an R-30 rating. While the double stud wall with exterior design, structural studs spaced at 16 inches O.C. might not achieve LEED Homes Advanced Framing Techniques points, the interior studs spaced at 24 inches O.C. certainly meet the requirement. The R-3 fiberglass batts in the exterior wall cavities and the R-13 filling the space between the exterior and interior walls as well as the interior wall cavities definitely help optimize energy performance. An outer house wrap vapor-permeable and fiber cement siding, with and an inner poly vapor barrier plus drywall adds to a very ' tight ' whole-wall-R value. Blower tests yielded a natural infiltration rate resultof 0.15 ACH, a very ' tight ' indication.

Heating and Ventilation

With the house's heating energy needs drastically reduced through this super-insulated shell, the design team then focused on the heating and ventilation system. Note that I didn't mention heating, cooling and ventilation system. Yet another design challenge! Habitat for Humanity Metro Denver has a policy of not equipping its homes with Air conditioning. This meant that the final design had to maximize heat reduction (for example by maximizing solar gain) without increasing the cooling energy load.

To Supply a proper amount of fresh Air to the house while minimizing potential for energy loss, the team opted for an energy recovery ventilation (ERV) system with efficient electronicallycommutated motors. The system exhausts its Air from the kitchen and bathroom, and Supplies fresh Air to the living room and bedrooms. Heat loss from ventilation is reduced because the ERV system heats the incoming air with warmth from the exhaust air.

The design team soon discovered that a very low heating load is a double edged sword. On the one hand very little energy is required to heat the house. On the other hand, most commonly available heating systems are oversized for such low heating needs, and overly complicated or expensive systems cannot be cost-justified. After carefully considering a variety of high-efficiency heating systems, and much internal debate, the team decided to follow a hybrid approach of electricity from the PV system, and naturalgas.

Controversial Approach

Some of us who are ' purists ' may turn up our noses at the thought of a zero energy home using natural gas. However, the economics involved convinced the design team that a hybrid approach was the best solution (see side bar)

The PV system selected by the design team uses the local utility grid for storage, thus eliminating the substantial cost of the storage battery. When the system is producing more energy than is being used, it delivers energy to the grid. When the system produces less energy than it produces, it draws electricity from the grid.

When the system draws electricity from the grid, it is likely drawing fossil-fuel generated electricity. Although a larger sized PV system may minimize the volume of electricity drawnfrom the grid, the cost of larger systems is prohibitive. The design team opted to include natural gas in order to reduce the size of the PV system by 1.1 kW, making it much for affordable for a Habitat Home. The team designed the system to offset the natural gas used, thus achieving, and even surpassing the goal of net zero source energy.

The hybrid approach allowed the team to size the PV system that is affordable, offsets the use of natural gas as well as any grid generated electricity, and thus allows the home to achieve (and even surpass) the goal of net zero source energy. The hybrid space heating system combines a pointsource direct-vent natural gas furnace in the dining room and living area, with small electric-resistance baseboard heaters in the bedrooms.

WaterHeating

The team selected to design solar water heating system-rather than a combined space/water hearing system-for simplicity, backed up by a natural gas tankless water heater. The team calculated that the 96 square foot collector area and 200 gallon water storage would result in an annual solar savings fraction of 88%. They opted for the tankless natural gas back-up heater after finding that the tankless system uses zero heating energy whenever the solar water tank is at or above 115 degree water delivery temperature.

The Crowning Element

Having reduced all possible energy loads as much as possible, the design team zeroed in on the lighting, appliances and miscellaneous electric loads (MELs). Compact fluorescent light They installed bulbs throughoutthe house, and ENERGY STAR label appliances. This left the miscellaneous electric loads, from TV, hair dryer, toasters, Computers, and anything else that could be Plugged in by the occuPants. Using Built-in America benchmark assumptions on MELs, the team settled on a 4kW PV system. Because the Built-in assumptions on America based upon a national average of a ' typical '
American household, the actual occupant use and local climate may either block the home from achieving zero energy usage, or propel it to the ranks of ' net energy producer.

The Verdict

Initial test results were encouraging. From February to July of 2006, the PV system produced more than 1.600 kWh electricity consumed the house. Factoring in the natural gas used for space heating and water heatingbackup, the house produced 75% more energy than it consumed source. Although a longer testing period is required, it's a safe bet to say that the house will be an annual net energy producer rather than just achieve net zero energy user. However, this could change if the occuPants begin using more than the average calculated into the Built-in benchmark America.

And the home owners? While it is true that the house is a net energy producer, they unfortunately are not free from utility bills. There is the monthly charge for the natural gas, as well as fixed charges for the electric grid and natural gas connection fees. From October of 2005 to May of the 2006, the owners shelled out an average of $ 18.25 per month on energy bills. Because the fixed monthly charges averaged +/-80% of thosebills, in actuality the family used on average $ 14.60 worth of energy.

For those of us who suffered through $ 200 + monthly energy bills during that same period, those results are very compelling.

KEY RESIDENTIAL SUSTAINABLE FEATURES

Energy and Atmosphere

Passive Solar Design

or The house was designed with increased glazing area on the long South facing side, and reduced glazing area on the North, East and West facing sides.

Renewable Energy

or 4kW Photovoltaic system using utility power grid to eliminate need for storage and associated high cost of storage battery

Insulation

or Raised heel trusses in attic allow 2 ft of blown fiberglass insulation, achieving R-60 rating for thermal envelope top

or Floors insulated toR-30

or R-3 fiberglass batts in outer 2 x 4 structural stud wall cavities, and a second, interior 2 x 4 stud wall with R-13 fiberglass batts placed horizontally between stud walls and interior wall cavities in vertically

vapor-permeable or Outer house wrap and fiber cement siding

or Inner poly vapor barrier and drywall

Space Heating

or Hybrid natural gas/electric heating system, combining a pointsource direct-vent natural gas furnace in the living room and dining area, and small electric-resistance baseboard heaters in the bedrooms. This combination provides the added bonus of zone heating, as each appliance has its own independent thermostat.

Water Heating

or Solar water heating system with 96 square feet collector area and 200 gallon water storagetank as primary water heating system, with natural gas tankless water heater as a back up system

Windows

or Double-glazed, low-e glass installed in South facing windows with U-factor of 0.3 and .30 SHGC of 0.58. For the East, West and North facing windows, Double-glazed, low-e glass was also used, with a U-factor of 0.22 and .30 SHGC value of 0.27. The U-factors of all windows exceed ENERGY STAR requirements (by 20%).
Appliances

ENERGY STAR ® appliances or were installed.

Lighting

or Compact fluorescent light bulbs deployed throughout the house

Indoor Environmental Quality

Local Exhaust

or Energy Recovery Ventilation (ERV) system with efficient electronically commutated motors, exhausts its air from the kitchen and bathroom, and Suppliesfresh air to the living room and bedrooms.

Outdoor Air Ventilation

or The ERV system heats the incoming fresh air with warmth of the exhaust air, thus significantly reducing heat loss from ventilation.
Materials and Resources

or Advanced Framing Techniques: Walls consist of inner 2 x 4 stud wall, 24 inches O.C.

Zero Energy Homes, Made Affordable

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics


Ceramic tile material is rigid and relatively brittle, so a sturdy base is the most critical part of installing this type of tile. Unless you want to see cracked tiles, loose tiles, or loose grout, you need to select the proper underlayMent. UnderlayMent being what the construction trade calls the layer that goes between your wood subfloor and your tiles.

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics


Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics



Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics

You have several alternate ways to accomplish the strong underlayMent required for ceramic tile installation.

Plywood-just a single layer of plywood isn't rigid enough to stop floor deflection. It needs to be covered over with an additional layer of exterior-grade plywood to achieve a total thickness of at least 1 1/8 inch. You can either (A) Cover the plywood with a cement backer board (more on these below) or (B)Cover the existing plywood with a second layer of exterior grade plywood. Under either of these, a thin-set mortar is applied to eliminate Air gaps. Additionally, in bathrooms, it's recommended to lay a "shower pan" over your wood subfloor. This refers to thin rubberized materials that protect the tile from floor expansion and contraction due to moisture, temperature and humidity.

Cement Backer Board-These are "prefabricated", lightweight concrete sheets used to cover wood subfloors. It has a dense Portland concrete core and fiberglass surfaces both sides and is able to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture. Brand names include DUROCK, UTILICRETE, WONDERBOARD and GLASCRETE. Joints of the backer board sheets should be sTAGgered such that they don't fall directlyover the wood subfloor joints.

Mortar Bed-Mud beds, or mortar beds, are used by professional tile contractors mostly. They're composed of a layer of thick roofing felt, then wire mesh, followed by a layer of mortar. The reason it is used mostly by the specialists is that it takes a high level of skill and practice to ensure the mortar bed produces a sufficiently level surface. The other reason is that it is the best foundation possible for a ceramic tile floor. Okay, but why? Because the mortar bed has a built-in reinforcement against floor deflections in the form of the wire mesh. Translation-less cracked tiles and loose grout, and longer-life flooring.

Ceramic Tile Underlayments-The Basics

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates


When building a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will determine how straight and square the finished product
will be.

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates


Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates



Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his Job and left you
with a reasonably straight and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a Job of framing contractors
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and correct the problem.

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will usually be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is easily done by using
the 3-4-5method. Measuring 3 ' from the corner on the side,
and 4 ' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these diMensions. Measure the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your measureMent
equals 5 '.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
keep parallel square and other sections of the houses
foundation, like a garage or sunroom. By using the biggest
square portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wallfirst. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4 "foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayMent. Both materials come in widths to accommodate
2 x 4 and 2 x 6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The exterior finish determines the placeMent of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the exterior finish is siding,
the sill plates will finish flush with the outside of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to measure in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2 "for a 2 x 4 and 5 1/2" for a socket. If
the exterior finish is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2 "
from the outside edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2 x plates are usually required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To locate the bolt hole in the
2 x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a combination square, put the square on the edge
of the 2 x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares with the lead edge 1/4 "away from the
blade of the square and draw aline. This will give you the
center of the 1/2 "anchor bolt along the length of the 2 x
plate. to get the center off the edge of the plate, measure
from the chalkline to the center of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill to
3/4 "hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
hex nut and washer. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and locate the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
all joints where the nail plates butt one another.

This is an important step whenbuilding a new home. By
installing the sill plates straight and square, it gives a
solid reference to follow when framing the rest of the
house.

Mike Merisko (c) www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

Thursday, February 16, 2012

This Hardinge 5C-SC round smooth step

This Hardinge 5C-SC round smooth step


This Hardinge 5C-SC round smooth step collet is used to hold workpieces in a lathe or other machine tool. It has a stepped hole to allow over-capacity diameters for through-hole bar stock. The collet has an overall length of 3.281” and a back bearing depth of 1.250”, and has external right-hand 1.238” x 20 threads for connecting to the draw bar, and the threads are heat treated for long life. It is made of spring-tempered steel that has been hardened and ground for accuracy and resistance to wear and breakage, and has internal threads for Hardinge positive work stops (sold separately). This step collet is used to hold metals, plastics, carbide, graphite, and ceramics in industrial manufacturing applications.

This Hardinge 5C-SC round smooth step
Collets are cone-shaped sleeves used to hold rodlike workpieces, or the shafts of tools, in the spindles of lathes, mills, or other machine tools. They are typically made of spring steel with one or more slots along the length to allow expansion and contraction, and have a center hole that is cylindrical, square, or hexagonal. A tapered collar tightens the collet to provide a fast, strong clamping action and accurate centering for low runout, making it ideal for high-volume production of precision parts. An expanding collet is used to hold a part on its inside surface so that it can be machined on its outside surface. Collets are used in applications such as the manufacture of metal and wood parts, semiconductor fabrication, and crafts, among others.
Hardinge Inc. manufactures turning, milling, grinding, and workholding products. The company, founded in 1890, is headquartered in Elmira, NY, and meets International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 9001 standards for quality management.

This Hardinge 5C-SC round smooth step

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls


They are all around us...Walls keep the EleMents out and a Controlled EnvironMent on the Inside. Walls Separate Rooms, Closets, Restrooms, Dens, Living Rooms, Kitchens and other areas of our Home. When the Home is in the Construction Phase, Walls are Built out of 2x4 or 2x6 studs which are Douglas Fir (wood), sometimes Metal Studs or even Concrete is used for certain Applications. The Framework is Covered in a Variety of Materials like:

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls


Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls



Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls

Drywall (known as Gypsum Board - finished in a variety of textured looks) Plaster (hard like concrete - in a variety of textured looks Paneling (wood or synthetic) Wood (usually vertical panels) Tile (porcelain or ceramic) Glass (in solid pane or window form)

The Different Materials used on the Exterior of the Home Consist of:

PuTTY (which is a Concrete material in a variety of textured looks) Siding (wood, vinyl or recycled materials-hung horizontal or vertical) T1-11 (plywood in 4 ' or 8 ' grooves-hung vertically) Glass Block (in a wide variety of sizes and looks)

Most of these materials whether inside or outside need to be sealed (protected) for a variety of reasons. With a variety of products. Mainly to last as long as possible without having to replace them from rot or decay. RepAiring walls inside or outside of the home can be done by the homeowner once they become familiar with the materials that they are about to repAir. In between the outer and inner walls there could be fibreglass insulation and possibly a vapor barrier on the outer wall to protect the wall and us from theoutside elements. Be careful not to damage or remove these barriers. They are there for a reason. If you do have to remove insulation or vapor barriers, make sure you replace them in full sheets and you wear the correct Clothing to work with these materials.

When attempting repAirs on the inner walls of your home, take note of what kind of material is being used and the thickness. Normally gypsum board (drywall) is used these days in 1/2 "thickness. Older homes can have a mixture of materials like plaster or vertical wood planking or even paneling. Paneling could be mounted to the wall on top of drywall or just mounted to the wall studs (framework). Wood planks are mounted to the framework, usually at the top and bottom and the hardware is hidden by decorative moulding, I know it looksseamless.

Wall repair, for the homeowner, is easier than you may think. Now we are talking about minor damage in drywall like, fist size to larger holes like a basketball in size. When sizing up the damage, pay attention to the thickness of the wall material and the framework inside the wall. Most wood framework, called studs, is put together on a 16 "(inch) on center schedule for Fastening systems purposes and strength of structure. That means when you measure the center of one stud, it should be 16 "on the center of the next stud and so on. This is also good to know for when you hang heavy objects on the wall. It gives you a measured map of the wall for securing to the studs. To complete this repair, visit my website below.

Walls in Need of Repair? First, Understand Your Walls

Thursday, January 5, 2012

What Are ICF Insulated Concrete Forms?

What Are ICF Insulated Concrete Forms?


The CeMent Association of Canada has developed standardized ICF training modules to help facilitate greater adoption of ICF construction. Two of their main objectives are:

(i) To facilitate greater understanding and awareness of ICF construction as a viable building alternative, that will escalate its adoption in the residential and non-residential markets.

(ii) To provide an industry baseline benchmark for required ICF training, ensuring adequate skills competence in the building workforce for the delivery of quality construction.

Today ICF construction is rapidly gaining popularity in both the residential and non-residential markets.

What is ICF Construction? Insulating Concrete Forms are energy-efficient reinforced-concrete walls that are dry-stacked without using mortar and filled with concrete, think of them like Lego blocks. The blocks, or forms as the are referred to, are stacked to form exterior and interior walls, reinforcing steel or rebar is then added into the openings and then concrete is pumped in to form the structural eleMent of the walls.

An Insulated Concrete Form can be made from a variety of materials:

(i) CeMent-bonded wood fiber (recycled waste wood and cement) (ii) Expanded polystyrene (iii) Cement-bonded polystyrene beads

One of the best ICFs are wood concrete forms, that is those that are made with cement-bonded wood fiber material that only uses natural ingredients. This combination of recycled waste wood and cement results in a better performing ICF wall system. When looking for an insulated concrete form you want to find ICFs that are environmentally safe, made from recycled material, do not contain nor emit any toxic elements, and are fully recyclable as well. Furthermore, insulated concrete forms that do not contain plastic, foams or polystyrenes are better for the environment than those that do contain these materials.

Benefits ICF construction has many benefits over traditional wood frame construction.

(i) Strength and Comfort In ICF construction the walls and floors form one continuous surface. This will help to keep out insects and create an environment free of allergens, dust, mold and other irritants. Furthermore the insulated forms are virtually soundproof and keep out unwanted noises and distractions..

(ii) Energy Performance Using insulated concrete forms means that your walls are already insulated better than any wood frame house. The ICFs will help to keep your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter and you can save as much as 50-80% on heating and cooling costs.

(iii) Structural Integrity A building built with insulated concrete forms can stand up to winds of 200 miles per hour and resist fire for up to 3.5 hours. ICF homes have been know to withstand hurricanes, tornados and a wide range of weather conditions from coast to coast. Furthermore concrete does not rot when it gets wet, making the upkeep and repAirs minimal.

(iv) Green Building ICFs are inherently green, from raw materials to installation. Depending on the product, you can find ICFs that have no CFCs, HCFCs or formaldehyde used in the manufacturing process and made from recycled material. Also, 100% of the installation waste, even the insulated forms themselves, are recyclable.

ICF buildings have higher energy savings, better fire resistance, and a superior structural integrity over traditional wood framed houses.

What Are ICF Insulated Concrete Forms?


What Are ICF Insulated Concrete Forms?


What Are ICF Insulated Concrete Forms?